4 - The Dial as Art

The 1970s was a period of bold artistic expression in watchmaking, with dials becoming canvases for creativity and innovation. Watchmakers experimented with vibrant colors, intricate patterns, and unique textures, transforming dials into true works of art. This chapter explores the artistic dial designs of the 1970s, the techniques and materials used to create them, and the iconic models that exemplified this trend.

Vibrant Colors and Bold Patterns

Seiko 6139 "Pogue". Credit: dreamchrono.com

The 1970s was an era of vibrant colors and bold patterns, and this was reflected in watch dial designs. Watchmakers embraced a wide range of hues, from bright oranges and blues to deep greens and purples. These bold colors were often paired with striking patterns, such as sunbursts, radial gradients, and geometric shapes, creating visually stunning dials that captured the spirit of the era.

Zenith El Primero A386

Credit: Windvintage.com

One of the most iconic examples of vibrant dial designs is the Zenith El Primero A386, introduced in 1969 and continuing into the 1970s. The A386 featured a tri-color dial with overlapping sub-dials in shades of blue, gray, and silver, creating a dynamic and eye-catching look. This innovative design not only showcased the chronograph function but also highlighted the artistic potential of watch dials.

Intricate Patterns and Textures

In addition to vibrant colors, watchmakers in the 1970s experimented with intricate patterns and textures to add depth and dimension to dials. Techniques such as guilloché, tapisserie, and engine-turning were used to create detailed patterns that played with light and shadow, enhancing the visual appeal of the dial.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Credit: AP Chronicles

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, introduced in 1972, is a prime example of the use of texture in dial design. Its "Petite Tapisserie" pattern, created using a specialized guilloché technique, added a layer of sophistication and elegance to the watch. The intricate pattern not only enhanced the aesthetic appeal but also demonstrated the high level of craftsmanship involved in its creation.

Dials made of hardstones

Rolex Day-Date

The use of hardstones for dial making by Rolex, started during the 70’s. It was unusual for dealers to stock stone-dialed Day-Date’s or Datejust’s but upon request they could order them at additional costs, displayed by this old and rare “Dial code Chart”.