One name stands out as particularly influential during this time of transformative era: Gérald Genta. Often referred to as the "Picasso of watchmaking," Genta's visionary designs revolutionized the industry and left an indelible mark on horology.
Credit: bobswatches.com
Born in Geneva in 1931, Genta began his career as a jewelry designer before transitioning to watchmaking. His ability to blend artistic flair with technical precision quickly garnered attention, leading to collaborations with prestigious watch brands. By the 1970s, Genta was poised to redefine the aesthetics of luxury timepieces.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Credit: sharpmagazine.com
Perhaps the most iconic of Genta's creations is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, introduced in 1972. At a time when luxury watches were dominated by gold dress models, Genta's design was a radical departure. The Royal Oak featured a stainless steel case, an integrated bracelet, and a distinctive octagonal bezel secured with exposed screws, inspired by a diving helmet.
Initially met with skepticism, the Royal Oak quickly gained a following for its audacity and style, becoming a symbol of luxury sports watches. Its success not only cemented Genta's reputation but also set a new standard for watch design, influencing countless other brands.
Patek Philippe Nautilus
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Following the Royal Oak's success, Patek Philippe commissioned Genta to create a similarly groundbreaking timepiece. The result was the Nautilus, launched in 1976. Like the Royal Oak, it featured a stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, but its design was inspired by a ship's porthole. The rounded octagonal bezel and horizontal dial embossing gave the Nautilus a unique, elegant appearance that balanced sportiness with sophistication.
The Nautilus became a commercial success and remains one of Patek Philippe's most coveted models. Its enduring popularity is a testament to Genta's ability to create timeless designs that resonate across generations.
IWC Ingenieur SL
Credit: iwc.com
Beyond the Royal Oak and Nautilus, Genta's prolific career included numerous other notable designs. He created the Ingenieur SL for IWC in 1976, featuring a robust, anti-magnetic case and a distinctive integrated bracelet.
Universal Geneve Polerouter
Credit: universalgenevepolerouter.com
Genta's versatility was further demonstrated in his work with Omega, where he designed the Constellation series, and with Universal Genève, where he created the Polerouter Microtor. His ability to blend form and function, along with his innovative use of materials and shapes, set him apart as a true master of watch design.
Omega Constellation. Credit: gerald-genta-heritage.com
New beginnings
Alongside his collaborations with the finest watch brands, Genta created his own company in 1969, developing his eponymous brand and producing exceptional pieces for unique clients. Constantly creating and innovating, he combined new shapes and materials with major watchmaking complexities. Always working towards an unprecedented idea, largely inspired by painters and innovative designers, he quickly earned respect and high esteem from the industry and watchmaking enthusiasts throughout the world.
Credit: watchesbysjx.com
One of his most famous pieces, the Grand Sonnerie, featuring the same chimes as Big Ben, was considered as one of the world’s most sophisticated wristwatches. Finalised after 5 years of R&D, the watch was a true masterpiece of art.
Remembered as a true pioneer of watchmaking
Gerald Genta passed away in August 2011 at the age of 80. Over his life he designed more than 100,000 watches for some of the world’s most famous brands. But above all, his vision and savoir-faire helped break boundaries, shake up pre-existing norms and rules, and bring the specific requirements of watchmaking closer to the creative power of art.
Explore our series about The forgotten innovations of 70's watchmaking:
- Intro - The Forgotten Innovations of 70's Watchmaking
- 1 - The Rise of Quartz Technology
- 5a - The Emergence of Design Icons
- 5b - Gerald Genta: The Maestro behind 1970's Watch Design
- 6 - The Impact of Space Exploration
